I forgot to tell you…I got a hair cut!  I’m sure you could care less whether my hair is short or long, but I wanted to tell you about the experience of having my hair cut in Thailand.

It was late July on a Thursday afternoon.   After Nik and I had lunch on Nimmanhaemin Road, I set off to find a hair salon.  I walked across the street and half a block to the right, and there it was.  The windows had tasteful images of L’Oréal hair models, and there appeared to be 4 bored stylists sitting on couches reading magazines.  I walked in, and all eyes were on me.  The older man who appeared to run the salon greeted me, and I mimed shampoo , hair cut and blow dry.  He nodded, and I asked if I could see a hair book (open/closed hands like a book, pointed to my head then pointed to the stack of magazines).  One of the stylish younger ladies understood, and she walked around the corner and came back with a jumbo sized hair book.  I quickly thumbed through the pages to find a photo resembling Kate Bosworth’s cut.  I showed the owner, and he nodded yes.  I said, “Right now my hair is ugly.  I want to be pretty.”  He smiled and nodded in agreement.  Or maybe was just smiling and nodding.  Regardless, we were all on the same page.

The hair book girl walked me back to the shampooing station and motioned for me to have a seat.  The shampooing chairs were unlike anything I had ever seen.  They were black leather chairs complete with an adjustable height footrest and a super soft headrest.  I sat down, and she wrapped my shoulders and neck with towels, and started washing.  THAT’S COLD!!!  I forgot, they don’t have hot water heaters in Thailand.  After the initial shock, I settled into the ice cold shampoo and found it quite refreshing.  As my lady lathered and rinsed she gave my head a much needed massage that didn’t stop at the hair line.  By the time I was ready for the final rinse, my ears, neck and temples had been caressed and covered with shampoo.  I was paranoid that I would have shampoo in my ears all day, buy she skillfully rinsed them with ice cold water and followed with a plush towel.  I sat up and was ushered over to the owners station.  It was do or die time.

He showed me the book again, and we both nodded.  I was very pleased to see that he didn’t begin with basic shears, instead he started with a straight razor!!!  At last, I finally had confidence that he knew what he was doing.  You see, for thick, bulky hair like mine, scissors do little good.  In order to reduce bulk and add shape, the stylist has to use a razor.  20 minutes later he was finished, and I was back in the capable hands of my shampoo lady.

She added a couple different products, and started with the all-over blow dry.  Once most of the moisture was gone, she pulled over the cart full of duckbill clips and started pinning up sections of hair.  Normally, stylists use two or three, but she used about 20!  I suppose it is a little more efficient this way.  She proceeded to dry my hair straight in sections, and she is the most skilled blow dryer ever!!!  Every movement was graceful and efficient, and the results were amazing.  No straightening iron required!

After she finished, the owner walked over with a big smile to match mine as I touched saw my new style for the first time.  He had done a wonderful job, and his assistant was spectacular.  He pointed to a L’Oréal hair poster, and in broken English said, “You be model.”  I blushed, and said thank you, thank you!

An hour and a half after I walked in with my frizzy ugly hair in a pony tail, I walked out with silky smooth hair hanging over my shoulders.  And the final shocker is that it only cost 180 baht, or $5.50.  I was so flabbergasted by this that I had to give them a 50% tip, but they deserved so much more.

Jamie Sinz

Tuesday afternoon Nik and I set out to explore a new neighborhood.  We originally planned to visit Suthep, which is the neighborhood just south of Chiang Mai University, but then decided to go to the Tha Pae Gate area instead.  I must admit that I encouraged the decision against Nik’s wishes. You see, Tha Pae Gate is the tourist mecca of Chiang Mai.  Everyone and their sister, brother, mother, aunt and cousin stay here when they visit Chiang Mai.  This is where Tuk Tuk drivers sit and wait at every corner waiting for a foreigner to walk by.  And since we like to consider ourselves “temporary locals”, we steer clear the same way that most New Yorkers stear clear of Times Square.

Unfortunately for Nik, I am curious about these touristy areas.  I want to know what everyone else that visits this town sees.  I want to know how they are treated and what they eat for dinner.  I want to see the guest houses where they stay.  I want to see them, the tourists!!  Who are they?  Are they young or old?  Are they families or singles or couples?  Are they Americans or Europeans or Australians or Africans or Asians?  Where do they congregate?  Do they actually go to the Starbucks and Burger King?

I am also interested to know if the true locals act differently in the tourist mecca.  Do they try to haggle you into their stores and restaurants like they did in Koh Phi Phi?  Do they spend their leisure time here or do they choose to dine and live elsewhere?  What are the houses like in this neighborhood?  Are they cleaned up so that the tourists think Thailand is perfect, or are they just like all of the other neighborhoods?

On Tuesday I found answers to most of these questions.  The majority of tourists are caucasian, and are probably from Australia or Europe because we haven’t encountered very many Americans.  Most look to be in their 20′s and traveling in pairs, but I did see a few families with younger children.  There are tons of guest houses to choose from. I mean one, if not 4, every block.  The guest houses range from dilapidated old concrete block buildings to sleek modern resorts.  Most of them have restaurants that serve western food along with a few Thai dishes, and most of the tourists I saw eating were at one of these establishments.  I’m certain that all of the menu items are marked up by 200-300% in this neighborhood verses the area that we live.  There are street vendors selling the typical Thai snacks, but most of them are within the neighborhoods instead of the main streets.  Which brings me to my next observation, I saw very few tourists walking through the smaller neighborhood streets.  They were all either at their guesthouse restaurant or walking up and down the main streets.  I find this very unfortunate!  The side streets are the best part of Chiang Mai!!!  You can find so many interesting places, and you can see from several of my previous posts.  And finally, tourists do go to Starbucks for their lattès and  frapacinos.

As for the Thai people in this neighborhood, they seemed to be the same as everywhere else. They smiled when I smiled.  The massage girls asked me to come in for a massage.  Half of the street vendors ignored me, half of them smiled and said hello.  The houses are similar to the ones in my neighborhood…gates, walls, bright colors and barking dogs.  The main streets didn’t seem to attract very many leisure locals, but I did visit on a Tuesday afternoon, so I’m sure that everyone was at work or school.  I guess I’ll just have to come back this weekend!!!  Just kidding…Nik would have a fit!

Hand Painted House

Orange and Concrete

Concrete and Dogs

Spa Treatment

In the midst of all of this curiosity, I found time to do a little shopping and have a 60 minute massage.  I wish I could remember the name of the spa, but I know that it was in a yellow building that had a guest house and small restaurant and it is located on Tha Phae Road Soi 5 behind Wat Mahawan.  Since it is low season, I was able to walk right in and the kind host brought me a glass of water while he prepared my massage room.  Once in the room, I waited for about 20 minutes before the maseus joined me.  First she did the traditional foot soak and massage, then I had requested that the longer massage focus more on the back and shoulders.  It was more of a deep tissue massage than I expected, which was perfect.  Then when I came back outside the host brought me a delicious fruit tea, I paid my bill (350 Baht or $10.20), and left to meet Nik to go home.

The Meeting Spot

It was another good day in Chiang Mai.  Next tourist destination…the Night Bazaar!!!

For Nik’s Version of the day: Chiang Mai Chinese Cemetery, Old Lady and Cart, Mixed Fermented

Sunday at Huay Tung Tao Reservoir

This weekend, Nik and I spent another relaxing day at Huay Tung Tao Reservoir.  We chose a bungalow that actually sat on the water this time, which was ideal!!!  We also remembered to bring cards, so we played two games of Gin Rummy after a nice lunch of som tom, stir-fried vegetables and Coke.  It was a good day.

At one of my favorite travel blogs, Cool Travel Guide, Lara is asking her readers about postcard passion.  Since I am a huge fan of postcards, I replied to Lara, and I thought it would be fun to tell you guys what I said, so here goes…

Who I send to: My practice has been that I send a postcard to my mom & dad, sister and brother everywhere I go.  Then if the trip is more special than normal, I send one to my grandmother, aunts, uncles and closest friends.  Then if the trip is extra special, I send postcards to my work, old friends and distant relatives…the Christmas Card list.

Graphic Subject: When I am at the shop, I pick cards that are visually interesting to me, then I later choose who gets which one. I only send postcards with photos or illustrations of places or scenes that I have actually seen or experienced.  I prefer for the subject matter to be architecture, but I sometimes pick up cards with graphics, like the London Tube map, or people, like a Bangkok street vendor.  I also prefer that all my postcards have unique subjects…so that when my sister visits my mom, she doesn’t say, “Jamie sent me that card too!”

Note Subject: If possible, my note is about the image on the front.  I also cater every note to the individual.  If I’m writing my niece I tell her the things I did that day that she would have loved, like watching the ducks play in the lake.  If I’m writing my grandmother, I tell her more about the sensory experiences. I try to keep the note simple and short, aka viewer friendly!! And I always date the postcard the day I write it, and I often include the time.  This way when I forget to put it in the mail (see below), they still know I thought about them while I was away!!

Where I write: I would love to write every post card while I’m experiencing the subject of that particular card.  Sometimes this works out, sometimes it doesn’t.  I often write them as a big group at a park or coffee shop, or sometimes at the hotel as I decompress from a long day.

The added perk: STAMPS!!!  I love picking out stamps from foreign lands.  Again, I try to pick ones that represent the host country, and I always walk away with a few for my own journal pages.

Unsent cards: Sometimes I forget to buy stamps at my destination, so I end up carrying written postcards with me on the plane home.  When this happens, I buy fun stamps at home and send them anyways and hope that they don’t notice!!

As a recipient: I don’t receive many postcards, probably because I move around so much! But when I do, I love it and they go up on the tack board in the kitchen for a month or so, then they move into a drawer with all of the other cards and letters I have received since I was 10.

What do you think about postcards???  Do you still write them?

In Portland, it rains from October-May.  In Thailand, it rains from May-October.  Guess what…I left Portland in May, and came to Thailand in June.  This means that out of the past 10 months, 9 of them have had more rainy days than dry days.  Am I sick of the rain?  Yes.  Am I ready for it to be sunny and dry? Yes.  Would I like to leave my umbrella at home?  Yes.

Rain

However, I think that some of my favorite memories so far in Thailand have been finding shelter from the rain.  We have stopped on the side of the highway to climb under a bamboo farming hut.  We have found shelter at the entrance to a temple while watching orange-robed monks do the same across the street.  We have stopped at a bus stop along a country road where we were joined by stray dogs.  We have stopped at the bus stop on Huay Kaew  Road where we were joined by CMU students. (Not that I’m comparing students and dogs…they just happened to be at bus stops.) And today, we simply lingered for an extra hour at the Galae Restaurant.

The Galae (Hillside) Restaurant is surrounded by a traditional Lanna-style garden overlooking a small reservoir and the city.  Our table was right at the edge of the water, and the rain started right after we finished eating.  All of the tables are covered with large green umbrellas to keep the direct rain off, but the wind still carried a nice mist underneath the canopy.  When it really started coming down, the waiter walked down the hill with a golf umbrella for each table so that we could leave without getting soaked.  How nice!  Although we were finished eating, we opted to wait it out.  Watching and listening to heavy rain while sitting outside under cover has to be one of my favorite things.  Especially when the setting is this beautiful and I have great company!

The Galae Restaurant

For lunch I had a Thai dipping sauce accompanied by fried greens, cucumbers, boiled eggplant, cooked cabbage and green beans, and a fried Mackrel fish. The dipping sauce was delicious and a bit spicy. The vegies were good, but I wasn't fond of the fish.

In other news…here are some photos from the past few days.  Nik and I have been meandering a lot lately, so here are some of our finds!

The Neighborhood...Rainy day, Open Windows, Satelites, Athletic Club

Near the Market...Small Canal/Sewer, Sun Halo, Delivery Cart, Delivery Truck

Meandering...A huge outdoor Restaurant with playground, The Orange wall, Abandoned Construction, the Green Beast

Ban Tawai Tourist Village

Rural Drive...Rice Field, Watch House, On the Road, Gate to Nowhere

To read more about the drive to Hang Dong and Ban Tawai…

Nik’s Blog: Trip to Hang Dong (hahaha)