Nik and I spent the last two days exploring Old Town Chiang Mai.  The original intent was to go an a walking tour of temples.  We did see several temples, but the focus of the walking tour was the walking and observing.  We saw so many things that we could only find in Thailand!!  They were random days, so here are my random photos.

Window at Wat Muen Toom, Kid watching his friends pass after school, The perfect white rooster, Graffiti

roof tile work at Wat Pan Tao, Monk wraps drying at Wat Muen Toom, I had a rock in my shoe and was unaware of the tiger hiding in the next room

Doors at Wat Chiang Man, Yellow Wall, Burger & Fries at Mike's Burger, Window Shutter at Wat Chiang Man

Girl calling her mom after school, A section of the Nancy Chandler Map, FAIR, Elementary school girls getting donuts after school

The city wall near Tha Phae Gate, Wood detail at Wat Chang Taem, More wood details, Nik pondering why he is sitting on such a small swing

Nursing pups, Temple windows at Wat Chang Taem, Temple Gate, Handwritten headstone at Wat Pa Pao

Dragons at wat Chedi Luang, Mirrored tiles outside Wat Muang Khom Thong, White Chedi at Wat Chang Taem, Dandilion Fountain in the city moat

LUNCH!!!!

Saturday’s highlight was lunch.  On our Nancy Chandler map, it notes “Favorite Eating Places for Locals.  Lots of Cheap Eats”, so we had to go.  I wish I knew the name of the place, but it is on the corner of Inthawarorot Rd and Ratchadamnoen Soi 6.  It is a larger restaurant than normal, and they only serve chicken…boiled, grilled or fried.  We had grilled chicken skewers and boiled chicken over rice.  Sounds bland, right?  The chicken was, but the sauce they serve it with is amazing!!!  For the grilled chicken (satay), they serve a sweet peanut sauce.  For the boiled chicken on rice, they serve a soy based sauce with garlic and chilli and a lot more.  It was so delicious and filling, and only 90Baht ($2.25).  To add to the good food, the atmosphere is great too.  The owner, an animated middle-aged man, takes all of the orders and yells them short-order style to his two sons that are working the kitchen.  When he’s not taking orders he’s chatting with the locals.

Deteriorating steel gate, Path to the monks quarters, lilly Pond, The gate is leaning...not me

Front Yard Circus Show

Nik’s Blog: Walking Inside the Moat

The past few days have been pretty relaxed. Sunday we went to two markets, one day market selling everything under the sun, and one night market selling handicrafts. The night market was especially exciting because of the super cheap food!!! It seems like 10baht (30¢) is the standard charge for everything…noodles, omelets, banana shakes, bael fruit juice, potatoes.

Tiled dragon at a Wat near Talat Warorot

Talat Warowot: Inside the market building

Wat Muang Mang: the perfect traffic watching spot!

An English cottage in the middle of Thailand????

Monday we didn’t do anything. Literally. Nothing.

Today we ventured out into the mountains near by to visit Wat Prathat Doi Suthep. We pushed our little 125CC motorbike to its limit on the way up, but it was worth it. The temple was overcrowded with tourists and locals selling “paintings”, but the guilded chedi was beautiful.

Wat Doi Suthep: Golden chedi

Wat Doi Suthep: wind chimes

Wat Doi Suthep: Elephants Marching

After the visit to Doi Suthep, we continued along the mountain road where we ended up at this beautiful overlook.

When we came back down the mountain, Nik purchased a new little guitar. This way he can continue playing and I can enjoy the strumming that is the perfect lullaby!!

Nik's little guitar

Nik’s blog: Malls, Parks, Tires, Tickets, Markets, Oh My!

Nik’s blog: Doi Suthep and Malls

June 29, 2008 7:30am - 7:30pm 2nd Class Bus from Bangkok to Krabi

Our transportation

Instead of flying from Bangkok to Krabi, which would have cost 1,800baht/person ($56), we decided to take the 12 hour bus ride which was only 550baht/person ($17). The cost was one advantage, but for me the big payback was watching the landscape of Thailand pass by. We saw hundreds of cows roaming freely, karsk mountains to the west, karsk mountains to the east, the Andaman Sea to the west, the Gulf of Thailand to the east, simple two room concrete block houses dotted the roadside, occasional lavish mansions by Thai standards, motorbikes zoomed passed, cities where bananas and durian fruit dominated the markets, rubber tree farms, thatch roofs protected from wind by bicycle tires and kids playing and dancing at the bus stops for the entertainment of the passengers. This my friends is the advantage of a road trip. We never could have seen any of this if we had taken a plane. AND it is more environmentally friendly. At this point in our lives, Nik and I have all the time in the world, so we are making the most of it by enjoying this place rather than rushing from one appointment to the next.

The rest stop consisted of a large metal roof structure covering tables with snack foods, a couple hot food vendors and a restroom with squat toilets. Nothing fancy, but it was a good place to stretch our legs.

This is a photo of our first casualty of the trip....Travel Scrabble. This Scrabble board has been part of Nik and I's relationship from day 1, literally. We played on our very first date back on April 6, 2006, and have been playing ever since. This board has gone with us on most of our trips for the past 2 years, and has made it to several of Nik's blog posts. You may even recall his largest victory ever where he scored 318 points in one game. I am very sad to say that Travel Scrabble was left on the bus. We loved you very much, and I hope that someone in Thailand is enjoying this little bundle of joy that Alex donated to us when she left us for NYC.

Upon arrival in Krabi, we had our first of many dinners at their Night Market. About 10 dinner carts dot a vacant concrete patch next to the river along with several metal folding tables. All of the menus are in Thai and English, so most of the farangs make it here eventually!

Nik eating Penang Curry with 5-baht water and a bottle of Coca Cola.

Our next adventure in Krabi was visiting Wat Tham Seua and climbing to the top of the adjacent mountain which is the home to one a large golden seated Buddha and a couple small alters. The climb was pretty rigorous with over 1200 steps…and these were not the typical 7″ steps. Several of them had to be over 15″ tall with only a 4″ tread. It was more like climbing a 1200 rung ladder!

The ascent

All around Thailand, they repurpose used automobile tires into trash bins. There were several along the hike up as well as near the beaches in Phi Phi.

Seated Buddha

View from the top

Another view from the top

After we came back down the mountain, we went back to the guest house to change out of our sweaty clothes, then we came back to Wat Tham Seua so that we could visit with the monkeys!!  Nik took several good photos, so take a look at his website.

I was still worn out from the hike, so I rested with this little kitten.  She was so adorable that I couldn’t resist petting her.  She climbed right into my lap, and wouldn’t leave.  Unfortunately, I am allergic to cats, so I ended up with puffy eyes for a couple days, but it was worth it.

My friend

This happens to be at the base of the temple, but it is typical of all electrical wiring in Thailand. I don't know how people don't get electrocuted.

Then we took a short ride outside of Krabi.  We were on the same roads we had traveled down yesterday on the bus, but it was so much nicer to be on the motorbike!!  The neatest part for me was the rubber tree farms.  I have never seen one, so to watch white latex dripping from the trunk of a tree was pretty amazing!!

Rubber tree farm

Rubber catcher

Nik’s Blog: Last Day in Bangkok, Best day in Krabi

1:30am

Yesterday (meaning 1 1/2 hours ago) was a pretty good day.  We started off by switching rooms at the guest house.  We were in a room with a shower and toilet (650 baht/$20), now we are in a room with a shared shower + toilets (400 baht/$12).  I have to say that I miss the other room, but at least we found a wireless network here!  Nik is writing emails right now!!!
After changing rooms, we made our way to the water taxi which took us down river to the stop near the Grand Palace.  We wandered around the area in search for breakfast, and found ourselves on a small side street eating the best Pad Thai ever!!!  The portions were small, but so tasty.  This is the first Pad Thai I have ever had with the dried shrimp, which is the traditional method.  It is going to be so hard to eat American Thai food after this trip!
Next up was the Grand Palace.  The Palace  has a huge white wall completely surrounding the grounds with Stuppa-like gates on each side.  All streets and sidewalks in the area were covered with Thai nik-naks, tourists, tuk-tuks and tour buses.  You have never seen so many tuk-tuks!
Entry to the Palace was 250 baht/person ($7.50), which is pretty steep, but worth it.  Nearly every wall, ceiling and surface was covered with very colorful glass tiles.  And these weren’t large glass tiles, they were very small.  There were also a couple buildings that were covered in gold leaf glass tiles.  We took several sitting breaks to rest and people watch.
Also, the Emerald Buddha is on these grounds as well.  It is located in the largest religious building on site and the most ornate.  To enter the building we removed our shoes and sat along with the other tourists and devotees.  The shrine was breathtaking.  The image (this is what they call the statue) is seated on top of a lavish golden throne that is protected by two golden guards on either side.  Also, every wall is covered with colorful glass mosaics and the ceiling is painted a deep red with golden motifs.  We were also fortunate to witness a religious ceremony being performed in the Hor Phra Monthian Dharma.  The temple itself was closed to devotees only, but several were seated along its perimeter and the proceedings were broadcast on loudspeakers throughout the complex.  We happened to be close enough to hear the congregation respond, which was beautiful.
Beyond the shrines is the actual Royal Palace.  The grounds were meticulous and the buildings were impressive.  They were a funny combination of Romanesque porches, windows and columns with the more detailed roofs that are gilded like the Buddhist temple next door.
As we were leaving, we found heaven on wheels!  Close to the exit, there was a cold drinking water truck!  It was so delicious!!
The rest of the day was pretty uneventful.  We had lunch at a little noodle shop near the university, took the water taxi back to the guest house, drank an iced coffee and took a “nap”.  We fell asleep around 2pm and woke up at midnight…which is why I am writing @ 1:30am!

Tuk-tuks lined up and ready to take advantage of any willing foreigner!!

Changing of the guard. This is the 3rd time I have witnessed a changing of the guard. First in Copenhagen, next in London and now in Bangkok.

Guard at the main entry to the temple

Reliquary on the Upper Terrace

Reliquary: Detail

Ceiling of the Chapel Royal of the Emerald Buddha

Wall Detail of the Chapel Royal

Scaled model of Angkor Wat

Wall Detail

Guard in front of Chakri Maha Prasat Hall

For more information about the Grand Palace, click here.

Nik’s Blog: In Bangkok