Knite: Sliver of blue by Yuumei

The artist is a student at UC Berkeley, and you can find more of her work here: Yuumei’s Deviant Art Gallery. The amazing thing is that this drawing captures the space so much better than my photo, and it is exactly the way I felt in the little alley way of Shanghai. The original photo was in this post: Shanghai Lane Houses and Fuxing Park

Shanghai Library buttresses

Knowledge

In the frustrating lack of decently priced English books in Shanghai, I turned to the Shanghai Library in hopes of striking gold. After acquiring a “visitors” pass for the day, I continued to the Foreign Language Reading Room on the 4th floor. An entire floor dedicated to foreign books!!! This was going to be perfect!!!

Unfortunately, the selection was not exactly what I was looking for. I was hoping for aisles of contemporary and classic titles organized by the Dewey Decimal system and piles of recent periodicals. I found a confusing hamster maze of tired reference materials, stacks of stuffy trade journals, about ten foreign newspapers that all dated from early June and a total of three shelves dedicated to literature. I realize now that my expectations were too high. Foreign language books are not the focus of this library and many foreign books and publications have probably been censored in this country. Oh well! The Shanghai Library will not be my source of free unending literary entertainment, but it does house some nice reading rooms that will be good for reading two week old British newspapers and back issues of National Geographic.

I also think that the library deserves a second shot. There has to be more interesting material than the June 12 Times newspaper that I found. There has to be a hidden gem in there somewhere….I mean look at this place! It’s enormous. The library complex covers nearly an entire city block, and Shanghai city blocks are HUGE. What is in that big tower? What is in that little tower? What about the courtyard I saw from the windows? Too much of this building is still a mystery.

Next time, I will remember to bring my passport so that I can get a “general reading” library card that will allow me access to the reading rooms. I could get a “general lending” card after paying a 100rmb deposit, but based on my first visit, I don’t think there is much I will want to take home. Also, I’m not very good at returning library books on time!

View from Huaihai Rd/Hunan Rd

Tile relief

Main Entrance

Complex facade geometry

Nutrition

This week I finally stopped at a produce market that I have passed several times on Jianguo Rd. It is always packed with people, bikes and motor bikes, and even the lady with the Styrofoam fortress was parked out front. I wandered through the first floor meat area, but everyone else seemed to be going upstairs. I followed the crowd and found a figure eight market packed with people and produce. The best part is that they were too busy to mind me taking photos.

Wet Market

Eggplant, cucumbers and green beans

Indulgence

I don’t know what has gotten into me this week, but if a place sells sweets, then I have to stop. The first one was Awfully Chocolate, which I have wanted to try since the first few weeks we were here. It’s located on Xinagyang Nan Rd near Fuxing Rd. The interior is extremely sparse and the menu even more so. They have chocolate cake and chocolate ice cream, and that’s it. But let me tell you. Their chocolate ice cream is the best chocolate ice cream I have EVER tasted. It is a little pricey for Shanghai at 25rmb ($3.60) for one scoop, but one scoop is really all you need.

Awfully Chocolate
Xiangyang Nan Rd near Fuxing Rd
Metro Line 1, Shaanxi Rd
Single Scoop of Ice Cream: 25rmb

Awfully Chocolate

Next I found the Shanghai Cupcake Cafe & Chocobar tucked in a back alley of Taikang Lu. The shop just opened on May 15 by an American named Lee (sp?) who has been living in Shanghai for four years and recently finished culinary school. He said he wanted to focus on one thing, and he choose cupcakes. They have a selection of flavors that change daily based on Lee’s whim, so you’re guarnateed to have something new to try each time you go. I tasted the Belgium Chocolate and Mango. The chocolate was silky smooth and the icing and cake blended together perfectly. The Mango was a bit milder and not quite as sweet, so the pair was perfect together. As far as I know, this is the first cupcake shop in Shanghai and is similar to many that have opened up in America recently. I really hope they do well.

Shanghai Cupcake Cafe & Chocobar
Lane 210 Taikang Rd.
No. 10 (near Jianguo Rd)
t. 021-64741279
Cupcake + Coffee: 38rmb

Shanghai Cupcake

And finally….a random photo of one of many skyscrapers that fill this city. “The Center” on Changle Lu/Changshu Lu.

The Center

Pudong, Shanghai, China

Here is my short list of Shanghai places that I would recommend to anyone visiting the city. I compiled the list while living in Shanghai from February – November 2009. These are simply the places I like, and think you might want to know about. It is by no means a comprehensive guide to everything in the city…but I think I’ve covered the best!!

[Jamie] links to blog posts where I have mentioned the place
[Nik] links to blog posts where Nik has mentioned the place
[smartS] links to the SmartShanghai restaurant review with map, directions and taxi printouts
[cityweekend] links to the City Weekend article because there isn’t a review at SmartShanghai

Sights

1. Lupu Bridge

Luban Rd near Longhua Rd
Metro Line 4, Luban Rd
Admission: 60rmb
[Jamie] [Nik]

Nik climbing the Lupu Bridge

The Lupu Bridge is one of many that crosses the Huangpu River, but as far as I know, it’s the only one that you can climb to the top of. The entrance fee is 60rmb, and that gives you an elevator ride half way to the top, and then you have to take a series of stairs the rest of the way. It is really amazing to go up on a clear day and see all of the development in Pudong, the construction along the river for the World Expo and the vast sea of high rise buildings in Puxi. I think it’s the best 360˚ view in the city.

2-3. World Financial Center and Jin Mao Tower Bars and Restaurants

Century Avenue, Pudong
Metro Line 2, Lujiazui
Admission: 0rmb (you pay for the view with the price of beverages)
[Nik]

HSBC Jin Mao and WFC Towers

The World Financial Center and the Jin Mao Tower are the two tallest buildings in Shanghai right now, and each has its own observation decks (100-150rmb/person). But I don’t recommend going that route. Both buildings also house hotels, which means they have restaurants and bars in their upper stories. The hotels also have lobbies with a view, and if you’re short on time, I’m sure they wouldn’t mind you wandering in and snapping a few photos. But if you have more time, find a nice window seat and have a drink. In the WFC, we had 60rmb martinis at their trendy bar/restaurant ’100 Century Avenue’ around 4pm on a Thursday in December, and we were the only ones there. Much more relaxing than the observation deck I presume. In the Jin Mao Tower, we opted to sit in the Grand Hyatt hotel lobby late one Sunday morning and drink 60rmb coffee. It was busy with hotel guests, and the adjacent restaurant had a nice spread for brunch that we might have to try sometime. Again, probably more relaxing than the observation deck and we didn’t feel like we were in a tourist trap.

4. Shanghai Urban Planning Exhibition Center

Renmin Da Dao 100, Northeast of the Shanghai Museum
Metro Lines 1, 2 & 8, People’s Square
Admission: 30rmb
[Nik]

The Danish Pavillion for the World Expo 2010

The only reason I recommend visiting this “museum” is that they have an amazing architectural model of Shanghai as it is dreamed to be in 20 years and they have an impressive exhibit on the World Expo 2010 right now. When I visited last December, I hadn’t even heard about the Shanghai World Expo 2010 so seeing models for all of the international pavillions and the master plan for the entire event was impressive. Other than that, they do have some pretty cool old maps and photos on the second level and a moderately interesting room dedicated to urban housing. But that’s it.

5. Shanghai Museum

No. 201 Renmin Avenue
Metro Lines 1, 2 & 8, People’s Square
Admission: Free (limited to 5000 visitors/day but I doubt they reach that)

The Shanghai Museum is a typical city museum focusing on the art and history of China. It is a great place to linger for a few hours, but expect to be joined by hundreds of tourists chatting and taking photos of everything. My favorite exhibit is the pottery collection which shows the entire history of “china” in China. It isn’t the most calm and reflective space, but it is worth it.

6. The Bund

Zhongshan Rd along the river near Suzhou Creek
Metro Line 2, Nanjing Rd E
Admission: Free
[Jamie]

The Bund at night

The Bund is a street with historic French Colonial buildings on one side and the Huangpu River on the other. It is also one of the most popular tourist spots in Shanghai and is filled with people offering to take your photo, hawking light-up roller skates, and selling “fresh” fruit on a stick. Regardless, there are tons of photo opportunities and benches to sit and people watch. I have heard that hordes of people practice Tai Chi early in the morning in the park, but I have not seen it. I will before I leave! My favorite time to go is at night. The Pudong skyline combined with the continuous stream of riverboats put on a pretty impressive light show, and the buildings are lit to emphasize their best features. Unfortunately, the entire area has been taken over by construction crews moving the highway so that for the time being, you cannot enjoy the view of Pudong AND the historic buildings at the same time. They should be gone by July 2010.

7. Bund Sightseeing Tunnel

The Bund (roughly opposite Bund 18, cross the street (pedestrian tunnel)
Metro Line 2, Nanjing Rd E
Admission: 40rmb one way, 50rmb return
[Jamie] [Nik]

The tunnel lights

Once you’ve experienced the Bund Sightseeing Tunnel, there’s no need to experience it again. But I think it is a must especially if you need to get from the Bund to Pudong near the Pearl Tower/Super Brand Mall/Jin Mao Tower area. The tunnel is basically a psycadelic amusement park ride with hilarious English translations and horendous lighting. You will never have to wait more than five minutes because it doesn’t attract very many visitors, but I assure that you will be laughing throughout your journey under the Huangpu River!!

8. M50 Art Space

Moganshan Rd near West Suzhou Rd
Admission: Free

The Shun Art Gallery in M50

The M50 Galleries are a little farther out of downtown, but easily accessible by taxi or bike. It is a collection of old houses and warehouses that have been converted into art spaces and galleries. I went during the middle of the week and was able to see dozens of artists painting, sculpting and working in their studios as well as a few galleries that had impressive pieces. The entire neighborhood is a little different than downtown Shanghai, so while you’re up there take a stroll along the Suzhou Creek.

Sleeping

1. The Quintet Bed & Breakfast

808 Changle Rd, near Changshu Rd (French Concession)
Metro Line 1, Changshu Rd
Room Rate: 900-1100 rmb/night
[Jamie][Nik]

The Grand Cathay at Quintet B&B*

We typically stay at budget hotels and guest houses, but for some reason decided to splurge the first time we visited Shanghai. I am so glad we did!! The Quintet is owned and run by Fay, who might be my favorite inn keeper ever. We felt as though we were staying at a friends house who happened to have five beautiful guest rooms, a rooftop terrace and a cook who made delicious french toast and coffee for us every morning (see the notes on the Closed Door breakfast below). Staying here is what clenched my desire to open my own Bed & Breakfast one day. In fact, once we came to Shanghai to live, I sat down with Fay to talk about just that. In her case, it was a dream that just happened one day. She casually mentioned that she’d like to open a B&B to a friend who casually mentioned that they knew of a great old lane house that she should look at. And the rest is history. The Quintet is located in the heart of the French Concession and has every benefit staying in a small inn could have.

2. URBN Eco Hotel

183 Jiao Zhou Rd near Xinzha Rd (Jing An)
Metro Line 2, Jing An Temple
Room Rate: 1300-2600rmb

Parks

1. Zhongshan Park

Changning Rd near Dingxi Rd (Changning)
Metro Line 2, 3&4, Zhongshan Park
Admission: Free
[Jamie]

Newspaper at Zhongshan Park

2. Guilin Park

Guilin Rd near CaoBao Rd (Xuhui)
Metro Line 9, Guilin Rd
Admission: 2rmb
[Jamie]

Guilin Park Tea House

3. Fuxing Park

Fuxing Rd near Chongquing Rd (French Concession)
Metro Line 1, Huangpi Rd
Admission: Free
[Jamie][Nik]

Shanghai Plane Trees at Fuxing Park

4. Century Park

Century Avenue (Pudong)
Metro Line 2, Science & Technology Center
Admission: 20rmb
[Jamie][Nik]

Dad and daughter having fun in the bumper cars at Century Park

5. Riverside Promenade

Huangpu River between Dongchang Rd & Zhongyang Rd (Pudong)
Metro Line 2, Dongchang Rd
North of the Yangfu Line River Taxi terminal, South of the Dongjin/Dongdong Line terminal
Admission: Free
[Jamie]

Riverside Promenade

Chinese Restaurants

1. Yunan: Southern Barbarian

Area E, 2/F Ju’Roshine Life Arts Space
56 Maoming Nan Lu or 169 Jinxian Lu (after 9pm use Jinxian Lu entrance)
Metro Line 1, Shaanxi Rd
Dinner for two: 200rmb
[Nik][smartS]

Chicken Wings at Southern Barbarian*

2. Vegetarian: Jujubetree Vegetarian Lifestyle

Jiangning Branch
258 Fengxian Rd near Nanhui Rd
Metro Line 2, Nanjing Rd (W)
Dinner for two: 100-150rmb
[Nik]

Vegetables and fried tofu from Jujube Tree*

3. Hand Pulled Noodles: Noodle Bull

No. 291 Fumin Lu near Changle Lu (actual store front is on Changle Lu)
Metro Line 1, Changshu Rd
Basic Bull Noodle: 25rmb
[Nik][smartS]

Bull Noodle Soup from Noodle Bull*

4. Chinese Diner: Bi Feng Tang

Changshu Rd near Changle Rd
Metro Line 1, Changshu Rd
Dinner for two: 80-120rmb
[smartS]

5. Taiwanese: Charmant

1414 Huaihai Zhong Rd at Fuxing Rd
Metro Line 1, Changshu Rd
Dinner for two: 150-200rmb
[smartS]

Black Sesame Smoothie from Charmant*

6. Sichuan: Sichuan Citizen

30 Donghu Rd near Huaihai Rd
Metro Line 1, Shaanxi Rd
Dinner for two: 120-200rmb
[smartS]

Spicy Tofu from Sichuan Citizen

International Restaurants

1. Breakfast: Closed Door

808 Changle Rd near Changshu Rd
Metro Line 1, Changshu Rd
Brunch Menu: 160rmb (includes antipasti buffet, entree, beverage and coffee)
Entrees: 40-60rmb
**Reservations preferred but sometimes not required. t. 62480098
[cityweekend][Nik]

French Toast and eggs from Closed Door*

2. Italian Dinner: Closed Door

808 Changle Rd near Changshu Rd
Metro Line 1, Changshu Rd
Dinner for two: 300-400rmb
**Reservations required. Call at least 6 hours ahead for a table. t. 62480098
[cityweekend]

3. Clam Chowder & Sandwiches: Pier 39

172 Jinxian Rd near Maoming Lu
Metro Line 1, Shaanxi Rd
Clam Chowder in bread bowl: 50rmb
Sandwich: 40rmb
[Jamie][smartS]

Clam Chowder in a Bread Bowl at Pier 39

4. Brunch: Azul

18 Dongping Rd near Hengshan Rd
Metro Line 1, Hengshan Rd
Brunch Menu: 160rmb (scones, smoothie, two entrees and coffee)
[smartS]

Mexican Eggs and Blueberry Pancakes at Azul

5. Pizza: New York Style Pizza

Lane 248, Taikang Lu near Rujin Lu
Metro Line 9 will have a stop close by (Aug 2010). In the mean time, taxi or walking is the best.
16″ Pizza: 108rmb
Pizza by the slice: 15rmb
[smartS]

6. Japanese Teppanyaki: Itsuki Yakiniku

2/F Donghu Hotel,
7 Donghu Lu near Huaihai Zhong Lu
Metro Line 1, Changshu Rd
All you can eat and drink: 180rmb/person
[Nik][smartS]

Meat from Itsuki Yakiniku*

7. Tapas: El Willy

20 Donghu Rd near Huaihai Rd
Metro Line 1, Changshu Rd
Dinner for two: 400-600rmb

8. Sandwiches: Wagas

Over 13 locations in Shanghai, these are the ones I’ve been to
155 Chang Shou Lu Room L120 near Shan Xi Bei Lu (close to the M50 Galleries)
1F 265 Jiaozhou Lu near Xinzha Lu (across the street from Urbn Hotel)
Lunch: 35-50rmb

Coffee/Tea/Sweets

1. A:Mokka

201 Anfu Rd near Wulumuqi Rd
Metro Line 1, Changshu Rd
Coffee: 20-40rmb
[Jamie][smartS]

Coffee at A:Mokka

2. 25 Tao Jiang

25 Tao Jiang Rd near Wulumuqi Rd
Metro Line 1, Hengshan Rd
Coffee: 25-40rmb

3. Cafe 85˚C

Several locations in town, these are the ones I’ve been to
Off Huaihai Rd east of Sinan Rd
Wujiang Rd near Maoming Rd (Metro Line 2, Nanjing Rd W)
Milk Tea: 15rmb
Pastries: 2-8rmb

4. Lillian Cake Shop

988 Nanjing Xi Lu
Zhaojiabang Rd near Huashan Rd (Metro line 1, Xujiahui…it’s a food stall on the sidewalk behind Dairy Queen…follow the steady stream of people)
Egg Tart: 2rmb
[Jamie][cityweekend]

5. Awfully Chocolate

There are four locations in town, but this is the only one I’ve been to
Xiangyang Nan Rd near Fuxing Rd
Metro Line 1, Shaanxi Rd
Single Scoop of Ice Cream: 25rmb

Awfully Chocolate

The interior of Awfully Chocolate is extremely sparse and the menu even more so. They have chocolate cake and chocolate ice cream, and that’s it. But let me tell you. Their chocolate ice cream is the best chocolate ice cream I have EVER tasted. Who needs 31 flavors when 1 is perfect?

6. Shanghai Cupcake Cafe & Chocobar

***Update: This location of Shanghai Cupcake has closed. It is very sad because it could have been great!! Last I heard, they had a small little space in Taikang Lu across from Origin Cafe in Lane 248.

Lane 210 Taikang Rd
No. 10 near Jianguo Rd
t. 021-64741279
Metro Line 9 will have a stop close by (Aug 2010). In the mean time, taxi or walking is the best.
Cupcake & Coffee: 38rmb

Shanghai Cupcake

Shanghai Cupcake Cafe & Chocobar is tucked in a back alley of Taikang Lu and was opened on May 15, 2009 by an American named Li who has been living in Shanghai for four years and recently finished culinary school. He said he wanted to focus on one thing, and he choose cupcakes. They have a selection of flavors that change daily based on Lee’s whim, so you’re guaranteed to have something new to try each time you go. I tasted the Belgium Chocolate and Mango. The chocolate was silky smooth and the icing and cake blended together perfectly. The Mango was a bit milder and not quite as sweet, so the pair was perfect. As far as I know, this is the first cupcake shop in Shanghai and is similar to many that have opened up in America recently. I really hope they do well.

Non-Food Markets

1. Dongtai Lu Antique Street Market

Dongtai Rd near Fang Bang Rd
Metro Line 8, Laoximen
Market Specialty: Outdoor street market selling “antique” wares and memorabilia.
[Jamie]

"Old" Caligraphy Brushes at Dongtai Lu

2. Paper Goods Market

Fuyou Lu near Lishui Lu across from Gucheng Park
Close to the Yu Yuan Gardens Tourist area in Old Town
Metro Line 8, Laoximen
Soon, Metro Line 9 will have a stop closer by (Aug 2010)
Market specialty: Stationary and random school/party supplies on the 2nd level

3. South Bund Soft Spinning Cloth Market

Jiangyin St near Nancang St (just north of the Nanpu Bridge overpass)
Metro Line 4, Nanpu Bridge
Market Specialty: 4 levels of tailors that will make anything you ask. They also sell fabric by the meter.

4. Electronics Market

Fuxing Lu near Jiashan Lu
Metro Line 1, Shaanxi Rd
Market Specialty: 4 levels of stalls selling new/used/legit/questionable electronic merchandise.

5. Flower Market

Changshou Lu near Jiaozhou
This market is a little hard to find. It’s just east of the bridge going over Suzhou Creek, and behind a couple random buildings.
Metro Line 3/4, Zhenping Rd.
Market Specialty: Flowers, plants and small animals.
[Jamie]

Selling hundreds of flowers.

Interesting Shops

1. Lomography

No.126, Jin Xian Road
Metro Line 1, Shaanxi Rd
Shop Specialty: Toy cameras (Holga is the main brand), photography supplies (film, camera bags, books, etc).

2. Big Movie

158 Xin Le Rd near Xiangyag Rd
Metro Line 1, Shaanxi Rd
Shop Specialty: Good selection of old and new DVD’s for 9-12rmb. Be sure to check disk for imperfections.

3. Taikang Lu

Lanes between Taikang Lu/ Jianguo Lu and Ruijin Lu/Sinan Lu
Metro Line 9 will have a stop close by (Aug 2010). In the mean time, taxi or walking is the best.
Specialty: Converted lane houses into boutique shops, galleries, restaurants and bars at ground level while original residents still live upstairs.

4. Spin Ceramics

Bld. 3, 758 Julu Lu near Fumin Lu
Metro Line 1, Changshu Rd
Shop Specialty: Handcrafted porcelain ceramics from Jingdezhen

Classes

1. Ceramics: The Pottery Workshop

2/F 220 Taikang Lu near Ruijin Lu
Metro Line 9 will have a stop close by (Aug 2010). In the mean time, taxi or walking is the best.
Classes offered: Pottery basics (hand building and wheel throwing) 800rmb/4 classes + 5hrs open studio/week. *First class is free.*
[Jamie]

Ceramics studio at The Pottery Workshop

Miscellaneous

1. Shanghai Bike Polo

Lingling Rd and Caoxi Rd near the Shanghai Indoor Stadium
Metro Lines 1 & 4, Shanghai Indoor Stadium, but it’s best to ride your bike so you can play.
When: Most Saturdays at 5pm, and some Tuesdays (check the website for details)
[Jamie][Nik]

Shanghai Bike Polo

Shanghai Resources

Smart Shanghai
City Weekend Shanghai
Shanghai Expat
Shanghaiist

Other Useful Shanghai Blog Posts

Annamatic: Shanghai, Shanghai Eats Part I & Part II

If you have blogged about Shanghai, let me know, and I’ll add you to the list!

*Photos by Nik

The explorers: Dominic the Birthday Boy*, Andy, Nik and myself*

The four of us met up yesterday morning after breakfast to discuss our destination, Fuxing (pronounced “foo-shing”) Island. None of us knew anything about Fuxing Island. Only that it was an island, it showed up on most maps of Shanghai, it appeared to have a road that led to it, and it was pretty far away.

Nik's bike wheel is being realigned

But first we had to tune up our bikes. We managed to stop at every single bike shop on Fuxing Road (no relationship to the Island) between Hua Hai and the Huangpu River. Let me tell ya, there are a lot of bike shops on Fuxing Road. In the end, Nik had his front break tightened, his rear wheel realigned and his back tire patched. Andy had his rear tire aired up and bought key safety gear including a helmet and a dust shied for his face (that’s the weird bandanna-like thing covering his nose and mouth up there….and although it looks silly, I am considering investing in one because the pollution in Shanghai is probably doing a number on my lungs). Dominic had his breaks tightened, shopped for a new bike and almost bought mud flaps, but didn’t. Then almost bought mud flaps again, but didn’t. My bike was already perfect so I sat on the sidelines cheering on the others.

This is very typical. The boys are ramming into each others bikes while I sit back and watch...laughing and happy not participating*

We finally made it to the end of Fuxing Road and took the ferry across the river to Pudong. Neither Andy nor Dominic had ever ridden the ferry, so on this Saturday afternoon, the horizon of their biking adventures doubled.

The Super Brand Mall

Once we were in Pudong (the other side of the river) Dominic played the “it’s my birthday” card and took the group to the Super Brand Mall so that he could go to Toys-R-Us to buy himself a birthday present: Jenga! I didn’t mind in the least that Dominic took us into the most rediculous and busy place in Shanghai as a pitstop in our adventure. The other two, however, were not very happy about it, but they were troopers and sucked it up while we scoured the game section for Jenga! and ate ice cream sundays on the steps outside of Donald’s.

Riding*

Birthday Boy was satisfied and we were on the road again. The area of Pudong that we were in wasn’t very exciting and we quickly made it to another ferry that would take us closer to Fuxing Island.

Silo Stairs

Riverside details*

–I’ve been trying not to use Nik’s photos too much recently because he is posting the best ones on his site, I need to focus more on my own photography to capture what we’re doing, and I know that a lot of people look at both….but I couldn’t pass these up. They are so crisp and amazing, that I had to show them in the context of my photos.

On the ferry

Sunlight on the river

Man in profile

Shipping Cranes in the distance

Once on the other side of the river we really started to notice the haze/fog/polution/dust that had consumed the air. It was only 3pm, but the lighting made it feel like dusk which was pretty cool visually. However, this is when Nik and I really started feeling the effects of breathing all of this in, and looked at Andy and Dominic’s bandannas with envy. But we carried on…trying not to breath to deeply.

Juliet Balcony of an abandoned building

Intersection

Then we stumbled into this abandoned warehouse/art gallery area. The place obviously had someone that cared for it and restored it, but it was unclear whether it is currently in use. All the doors were open so we wandered freely on foot and riding our bikes, and no one seemed to mind. I’m sure there is something we don’t know about the place, and honestly, we probably never will. The things I do know is that they turned a bunch of large old warehouse buildings into amazing art spaces by using found materials. They respected the existing structures and left them alone as much as possible. Then they filled the place with vegetation. Huge trees create an almost solid canopy, potted flowers and plants are scattered everywhere and the entire courtyard that winds through this large space is made of slate roofing tiles that have been turned on their sides to create pavers. The area didn’t appear to be under construction, and it looks like it’s been here for at least a couple years, but nothing was occupied. All of the furniture (mostly steel tables with marble tops and lightweight aluminum patio chairs) was arranged in an orderly fashion and nothing was broken or falling apart. Maybe it is more active during the week? Maybe it is simply an event space and is only active during events? My curiosity is peaked, so I will probably be making a return trip.

Courtyard

Open Space

Sunflower

Wall of old windows

Pearl Tower decal

Slate roof tiles repurposed into slate courtyard pavers

More huge open space

Andy's ghost

Orange sun....and bird? Is that a real bird? Or a scultpure?

Enough of that. Back to the quest for Fuxing Island….

Red hand dyed yarn drying on the side of the street

Extremely typical residential building (sorry for the bad photo, but had to show it)

After riding along a nasty, dusty, potholed road for almost an hour we finally made it to the island!!! We were so excited about it that we spent nearly twenty minutes just standing on the bridge taking photos of each other and the water that separated the island from the “mainland”. None of my separation photos turned out, so you’ll have to assume that it was worth it.

Nik and Andy on the bridge

Dominic on the bridge

Me on the bridge*

It turns out that Fuxing Island is a completely industrial island that has one road that runs its entire length. To the east of this road are the ports, power plants and industrial stuff. To the west of this road are dusty residential buildings that seem to be falling apart, but I’m sure they were just built three years ago. There were pipes, manhole covers, wires, sand, rock and concrete truck after concrete truck everywhere. The one public green space (a park) on the entire island was closed for construction.

Rust

Man hole covers

The Dusty Road off the island

It was starting to get late and began making our way back home. Then, all of a sudden, it was dark. None of us remember the sun setting, it was just gone.

Back to the city

Now we know where we are

The bike ride was epic and we saw such a huge variety of places along the way. I told Nik that it felt like we were on vacation. That is how removed we were from the Shanghai that we know. In the end, Fuxing Island was a little anti-climatic but….

It is the journey, not the destination.

*Photos taken by Nik and hopefully he’ll get his act together and do a post about this ride soon!!! his act is together and you can find his post here.

Sunlight

I have been wanting to go out into the city by foot for a couple weeks now to take photos of every day stuff, and today I finally did. The weather was perfect. Clear skies and about 70˚F. I did cheat a little bit by riding my bike to Fuxing Park, but I figured it was best that I save my energy for the real walking rather than the “getting there” walking.

I decided on Fuxing Park because it is THE bench park in the city. Everywhere you turn, there is a bench. This meant there would certainly be a place to rest and people watch, but I also wore a dress today because of the summer-like weather, so benches meant I didn’t have to do the awkward fold-the-skirt-to-sit-on-the-ground maneuvers. And one more thing about the benches….the locals only sit in the shade. I would really like to see the statistics for skin cancer in China because it seems like everyone here shades themselves quite well. Go figure that the only sun-sitters I found were pasty-white turning lobster-red foreigners like me!

Fuxing Park also has beautiful gardens. Right now rhododendrons are blooming in full force, but I am most excited to see what the rose gardens offer in May and June.

Rhododendrons

Green Sprouts

Whenever there is good weather in Shanghai we see photo crews.

Japanese Maple

Shanghai Plane Trees

After the park, I made my way down Huahai and into a little group of lane houses. The lane houses in Shanghai scare me a little bit because I feel like I’m intruding, but today I was brave. I quietly made my way down each alley of doorways and was rewarded with amazing little things. I spoke with one of the occupants for a couple minutes, but I didn’t understand a word she said, so we didn’t get very far. I think she mentioned something about my blue eyes, and I asked her if she rode a bicycle…but that’s about it. No one seemed to mind that I was there, so I’ll probably go back!

Into the Lanes

Iron window gate

Laundry and Light

I still don't know what these are...first aid boxes perhaps?

**Update: Thanks to John, I now know that these are milk delivery boxes, and they are everywhere in these little lanes. If only I could read Chinese….so many of my questions about this city could be answered. I would love to see the delivery guy winding his way through and opening each and every box. I’ll let you know if I do.

Chair...notice the bike lock on the back?

Linens

Shared Sink

Little Window

Knock

Yellow Rug

Old street level - New street level

Taking advantage of light

After walking through this neighborhood today, I think the thing that is really fantastic about these houses is that they use every inch of space. They don’t have the immaculate front stoops just for show, and a second floor window is the perfect place to hang your laundry. Everything is functional and I’m sure most of it is the result of perfect logic even though it can look like chaos sometimes.